Snow at 2100 m altitude
below the Teide Volcano in the clouds (top right). Parador Hotel far left.
Teide Volcano, view from
the Parador Hotel, base 2100 m, top 3700 m, highest mountain in Spain.
"Not
possible go to Parador", the taxi drivers all said at the airport,
"too much snow, road blocked!"
At the
airport, taxi drivers did not want to take us to the luxurious hotel, a
Parador, high up at 2100 m, at the foot of the Teide. This is an extinct
volcano and the highest mountain of the Canary Islands at 3700 m.
Finally a
young driver with a solid looking Mercedes said "no problem, 60 Euros, one
hour". I checked his tires and they looked fine but I did not like theradial
tires, would prefer winter tires
The two
lane road up was a constantly winding road and in places narrow. Above 1000 m,
there were traces of snow on the side of the road and above the last village of
Villaflor at 1500 m, there was a solid snow cover but the road was clear.
It rained
and the cold temperature repeatedly fogged up the wind shield. The car blower
could not clear off the fog and it seems the heater didn’t function so we drove
slowly.
It took us
indeed one hour to get there but in a cold car. The taxi meter read 33 Euro.
Many
Paradors have a good deal for a minimum of 2 nights with half board, at 20%
reduction. For the 3 nights, room plus
breakfast, dinner and many drinks for two would costs us only 600 Euros.
This time
of the year most of the walking trails are covered in snow, see detailed map
for an overview of all trails [1].
Only the
walking trails on the dirt roads are nicely broken in [1] by a 4WD car. From the Parador it took
us 3 hours to reach the 4WD back road up the Teide at 2300 m. It leads to the Teide
access trail near the Montana Blanca at 2700 m, and goes up to La Rambleta, the
top of the cable car, passing a Refugio at about 3300 m.
4WD back road up
Montana Blanca, view at road going back down.
The weather
was variable, temperature zero Celsius
at 2700 m but with a strong and very cold, dry wind with regular mist or clouds,
obscuring the much warmer sun. The trail is mostly snow covered. At Montana
Blanca it was already 3 PM so we decided to go back.
Also, our
eyes started hurting, now wearing proper glacier glasses with side caps
preventing the cold wind blowing in the eyes.
Trail up to the refugio
at Montana Blanca, elevation 2700 m.
A tour
skier coming down said he reached the refugio today but higher up it was too
steep for him. Tomorrow we would try again but take the 10 AM bus to have an
early (!) start.
It was very
cold this morning, minus something. My travel companion was not equipped for
the ascend of the Teide, first a sore lower foot tendon and he also washed his
light weight Gore Tex coat and pants so they are not wind/rain prove anymore.
Today we
will take the “pensionades” route along the crater rim, a flat 4 hours walk to
El Portillo, a hotel-restaurant, and take the 15.15 h bus back to the Parador.
"Pensionates"
walking trail in the morning sun along the crater rim, right side. Close to the
Parador.
"Pensionates"
walking trail in the afternoon clouds along the crater rim, close to El
Portillo.
We were
equipped with proper gear, crampons and snow pickles, but were missing glacier
glasses as the cold wind was hurting our eyes.
In the end
we did not try it, but the last part to 3550 m, to the top of the cable car,
from the Refugio is known to be very steep and icy. The final summit at 3700 m
is prohibited without a guide and seems to consist of solid rocks [1].
Overview of
all trails [1]
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visitor #since January, 2006.